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Make cut files for Cricut, vinyl cutters, and lasers

Turn a picture into a clean SVG or DXF for Cricut, Silhouette, vinyl, and laser cutters: single-stroke edges, layered vinyl, real-world sizes, and the mistakes that ruin a cut.

Hiện bài viết này chỉ có bằng tiếng Anh.

How cutters read a file

A cutting machine doesn’t see colors or pixels; it follows paths. A blade, a laser, or a pen travels along each line in the file. That’s why a PNG or JPG can’t be cut as it is — there are no lines in it to follow, only pixels. Craft software can auto-trace an upload, but the result is often rough and hard to control. Tracing it yourself, with the palette in your hands, gives you cut lines along the edges you actually want.

What the file needs depends on the machine:

  • Blade cutters — Cricut, Silhouette, vinyl plotters — cut around the outline of each shape. Filled shapes are fine; the software cuts their edges.
  • Lasers and pen plotters follow every line exactly as it’s drawn. A line drawn twice is cut, burned, or inked twice.
Filled shapes; each shape’s own outline; and every edge once. Outlines draw a shared edge twice, and a laser follows both passes. Edges draws it once.

Start with cut-friendly artwork

Cutting punishes detail more than any other output. Every tiny region is a tiny piece of vinyl to weed, or a spot the laser has to visit. Bold shapes, thick lines, and few colors cut well: decals, silhouettes, lettering, and logos. Photos rarely do. Start from the sharpest copy you have and crop tight to the design.

Simplify the palette

Every color is a separate layer to cut, so fewer colors means fewer layers and fewer pieces. In the palette editor (Settings → Palette → Choose palette), slide Simplify Colors down to the colors you’ll actually cut, merge any near-duplicates, and hide the background so it isn’t cut as one big rectangle. For a single-color decal: two colors, then hide the background.

For vinyl, raise Minimum area (Advanced → Small regions) to 128 or 256: specks too small to weed merge into their neighbours before they ever reach the machine.

Cricut and Silhouette: filled shapes

For single-layer vinyl, iron-on, and paper, choose SVG and the General use preset. Every color is traced as filled shapes, each set into a hole in the shape beneath it, so every piece is exactly the part you see — nothing hidden underneath to cut and throw away. Upload the SVG to Cricut Design Space, or open it in Silhouette Studio, and assign the shapes to your materials.

Layered vinyl: stacked and grouped by color

Layered heat-transfer vinyl and layered stickers need a different structure. With cut-outs, each color’s piece meets its neighbours edge to edge like a jigsaw, and the slightest misalignment when pressing leaves a visible gap. With stacked shapes the larger pieces are whole and the smaller ones sit on top, so layers overlap and forgive small alignment errors.

The Easy editing preset gives you exactly that: filled shapes, stacked, and grouped by color — one group per color, so each color stays together as a layer when you import it.

Cut-outs: the lower piece has a hole where the upper one sits, so the two meet edge to edge. Stacked: the lower piece is whole and the upper one lies on top — more forgiving when you layer vinyl.

Lasers and pen plotters: one stroke per edge

For laser cutting, vector engraving, and pen plotters, choose the Cutting & engraving preset. It switches the draw style to Edges: one stroke along every boundary between shapes, drawn exactly once. Neighbouring shapes share a single line instead of two overlapping outlines, so the laser makes one pass — no double cuts, no scorched edges, no wasted machine time.

  • Stroke width and Stroke color (under Advanced → Stroke) set how the lines are drawn. Many laser programs assign operations by color — cut in one, score in another — so choose a color that matches your setup, or Original to color each edge after the shapes on either side of it.
  • For filled engraving of whole areas, some laser software prefers filled shapes it can hatch itself. Use General use for those, and let the software do the fill.

Get the size right

A cut file needs real dimensions. Under Advanced → Output size, choose Custom and type the finished size — say 120 mm wide — in mm, cm, in, pt, or px. Leave the other dimension empty to keep the proportions. The panel shows the exact size the file will be written at before you download.

For DXF, also check Units in the DXF section (mm by default). CAD and laser software reads the unit from the file, so a design made 120 mm wide opens 120 mm wide.

SVGs are more relaxed about size, and some programs guess when a file only carries its proportions. Setting an output size writes the width and height into the SVG; so does Fixed size in the SVG options. Either way, check the dimensions in your cutting software before you cut.

SVG or DXF?

SoftwareWhat to export
Cricut Design SpaceSVG (DXF is accepted too)
Silhouette StudioDXF in the free Basic Edition; SVG needs a paid edition
LightBurn and most laser softwareSVG or DXF
CAD and CNC (AutoCAD, Fusion, CAM tools)DXF

DXF is the more universal choice for lasers and CAD: it carries real units, and groups become layers. SVG is the everyday choice for Cricut and browser-based tools. When in doubt, check your software’s list of import formats. The format guide goes deeper, and converting an image to DXF covers CAD and CNC.

Five mistakes that ruin a cut

  1. Tracing the background. You get a rectangle cut around everything. Hide the background color.
  2. Too many colors. Dozens of layers and hundreds of pieces. Simplify the palette to the colors you’ll cut.
  3. Outlines instead of Edges on a laser. Every shared edge is cut twice. Use the Cutting & engraving preset.
  4. Specks too small to weed. Raise the minimum area.
  5. The wrong size. Set the output size and units, and test on scrap before cutting the good material.

Got a design ready? Upload it and start with the palette.